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Knowledge Of Knitted Fabrics And Washing Methods

Knowledge Of Knitted Fabrics And Washing Methods

2021-04-10

Knitted fabric basic knowledge aqua!


1. Basic fabrics


Jersey, Pique, Lacoste, terry and terry are the most conventional and popular single-sided knitted fabrics. Rib, Interlock, French Rib. By applying different finishing methods, using different yarn count, yarn type and adjusting different knitting process and tension, we can meet different customer requirements and styles of fabrics, such as feel, physical properties and various functions.


1. First, ordinary jersey

Sweats are composed of continuous loops of tissues, including common sweats, Plated jersey and spandex.


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Plated Jersey

Interwoven jersey is formed by two different yarns (different types of yarns or different colors) knitted in circles at the same time. Cotton and polyester interwoven jersey is the basic structural fabric of hygroscopic and fast drying fabric.


Spandex Elastic Jersey

Spandex jersey is a special interwoven jersey, which is made of spandex or dubon Lycra silk and another yarn, such as cotton or polyester, knitted into loops simultaneously.


2. single beads


* 4 mold bead ground


* 6 mold bead ground


* 8 mold bead ground


* Twill Pique on the beaded ground


* Athletic Pique


(1) mesh eyeball fabric


The bead mesh fabric is composed of continuous knitting stitch and Tuck stitch, including 4-mode single bead stitch, 6-mode bead stitch, 8-mode bead stitch, twill bead stitch, sports bead stitch, spandex bead stitch and so on.


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(2) 4-mode beaded ground (4F Pique)


Oxford Pique: Loops and loops are different colors of yarn.


Spandex bead ground: spandex is knitted only in the position of circle, so the elastic quality is worse than that of spandex jersey, especially in the horizontal direction.


(3) 6 mode beaded floor (6F Pique)


The characteristic of the 6-mode bead is that it is composed of a continuous ring and two collecting rings in the same longitudinal path.


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(4) 8 mold bead ground


The characteristic of the 8-mold bead is to form a loop for two consecutive needles in the same longitudinal path and set a loop for two consecutive needles.


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(5) Twill Pique


The structure of the twill bead field is composed of a circle, two floating lines and a Float stitch.


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(6) Athletic Pique


The structure of the twill bead field is composed of two circles and a Float stitch.


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3. double bead ground


The double bead has a hexagonal mesh surface. It should be the reverse of the fabric in craft.


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4. striped fabric


Cloth, bead and double bead are single-sided fabrics that can be knitted on the same machine. According to the requirements of the pattern, there are single-sided row machine and automatic knitting machine. (Feed Machine and Auto Machine)


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Yarn-dyed color striped fabric


Generally speaking, the row room and automatic room machines can meet the requirements of different cycle lengths.


Row between Feed Stripe


S296 model needle diameter 30 "not greater than 96 channels (S/K)


Max loop = 96 / CPI Inches;


Auto between Auto Stripe no more than 4 colors, no loop length limit.


5. spandex fabric


1


2


3


4


Usually spandex has: 20D, 30D, 40D, 70D


Core yarn: Cotton with a surface and a Core of spandex, such as 40SX70D cotton-wrapped spandex yarn.


Spandex fabrics require predetermined shapes to improve creases and stability.


These fabrics can be used in spandex: automatic jersey and single bead, rib and single looped fabrics.


These fabrics should not be spandex: slubby and high twist fabrics, double hoodies, suspender fabrics


6. French rib


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If the back side is polyester, and the front side is cotton, there will also be a lot of hair on the back side, which can be improved by tightening and increasing enzyme washing and singeing.


Grinning through If the colors on the front and back are different, the tint on the back will show on the front. This problem is called "grinning through".


7. terry cloth


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2. Special fabric structure


Checker Jacquard


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Ottoman Jacquard


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3. Common quality problems of knitted fabrics


* Shrink


* Bursting strength (Bursting)


* Slanting and Skew


* Bowing


* Pilling (Pilling)


3.1 Shrinkage


Usually, the structure of knitted fabrics for osteoporosis, and its shrinkage is bigger than woven fabrics shrink a lot, for single jersey, ChanZhu, double bead fabrics can reach a good shrink, generally 7% x7% (AATCC three behind dry), double-sided cloth, rib shrink to 8% by 8%, shrinkage depends on the knitting tension, yarn type, and the order way.


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Improvement method:


Tighter weave: Changes fabric weight, width, feel and style.


Resin Finishing: This will reduce the strength of the fabric, such as garment dyeing orders cannot be finished with Resin.


Compact: Increases shrinkage by 1-2%,


Fabric weight and door width will change, suitable for some loose fabrics whose shrinkage is greater than 7x7%.


structure


Other typical structural types: waffle, needle - drawing rib, etc


Loose Fabric


Lightweight Jersey ANF 20S /1 Beat Up Jersey


Low twist fabrics 40S /2, 30S /2 Low Twist Jersey


High twist fabric 80s/2 Hi-Twist Jersey


6 molds /8 molds beads


Other Influencing Factors


After finishing: non resin finishing


Raw material: spandex elastic fabric, rayon fabric.


For these fabrics, it is possible to control the horizontal and longitudinal shrinkage deviation to 3-5% if the fabric specification is reasonable.


3.2 Bursting with strength


The breaking strength of single-sided fabric is worse than that of double-sided fabric, depending on fabric structure, finishing method, yarn count/yarn type, knitting yarn length, color and other factors.


Bursting with strength


The breaking strength of single-sided fabric is worse than that of double-sided fabric, depending on fabric structure, finishing method, yarn count/yarn type, knitting yarn length, color and other factors.


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The strength of yarn: the strength of yarn is the mainest factor that decides fabric, so, yarn support, single yarn and thread factor are very important.


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Most processes in dyeing and finishing reduce the strength of the fabric, which can be improved by:


1. Reduce the amount of enzyme washing


2. Reduce the amount of resin


3. Tighten the fabric


4. Use ply yarn instead of double yarn


3.3 Weft inclination and distortion - Slanting & Skew


Slanting describes the degree of skew in the horizontal direction of knitted fabrics. For knitted fabrics, skew cannot be completely avoided, and skewness correction will affect the distortion index of the fabric (skewness.


Skewness is the degree of fabric distortion after wet treatment, such as household washing, garment dyeing, etc.


Skewness is the main problem of single-sided knitted fabric, which is mainly determined by the structure of the fabric, yarn twist, finishing method and knitting parameters.


Effect of structure


Single-beaded, single-beaded and double-beaded, all single-sided knitted fabrics are easily twisted. By adjusting the finishing style and the use of yarn can be improved.


Influence of yarn parameters


The greater the twist, the greater the twist, so single-sided fabrics with a higher twist show a greater twist.


Single and ply and double yarn


Single yarns show a greater tendency to twist, especially on high count fabrics such as 50S /1 jersey.


Using a strand image of 60S /2 can reduce the degree of distortion and potential problems. However, the twisted fabric of 60S /2 high-twist yarns was still very large, which was mainly due to the high twist of the yarns, and the twisted direction of the strands could not offset the level of 60S /1.


Compared to single-yarn and ply fabrics, double-yarn fabrics show the most serious distortion problems, such as 16S /1x2 jersey.


Finishing process


Resin setting and bevel setting can improve distortion.


The skew will increase the weft skew in a way that is primarily closer to the most natural state of the fabric when the twist occurs.


Comparison of improvement methods:


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3.4 Grinding and Pilling Bowing & Pilling


Bowing: For loose fabrics, such as double bead,6 bead,8 bead, twill bead, motion bead and unstable structure.


For jersey and single bead, if the knitting is particularly loose, the wider the width of the fabric, the more likely the texture of the fabric will occur.


Improved method


1. Knit more closely


2. Change the syringe of the fabric to reduce the width of the fabric door


Pilling performance: mainly depends on the finishing mode, fabric structure and yarn quality. Resin finishing and enzyme washing can improve Pilling, but at the same time reduce the strength


Improved method


1. Knit as tightly as possible


2. Use special tailoring techniques


Analysis of washing mode in knitting garment factory


After being washed by snowflakes, pure cotton knitted garments not only have the advantages of good air permeability and strong moisture absorption, but also have the characteristics of soft and smooth feel, plump cloth surface and snowflake style.


The following is an introduction and analysis of the snow washing method and technology of this knitting garment:


1. Snow washing mechanism of knitting clothing


Pure cotton plain knitting clothing with pumice adsorption of strong oxidant, through the reciprocating movement of mechanical equipment, the pumice on the strong oxidant evenly transferred to the surface of the fabric. Under certain conditions, the dye on the fiber is oxidized by an oxidant, resulting in the process of snowflake stone grinding.


2. Determination of snowflake washing method


There are usually two ways to wash snowflakes. One is a strong oxidizer pre-mixed with potassium permanganate and phosphoric acid or sodium hypochlorite. It is mainly used for snowflake washing with different dyes in different structures, which can produce uniform flat snowflake style. The other is sodium hypochlorite and shuttle methyl cellulose mixture. Mainly applicable to dye molecular structure similar snowflake washing, can produce three-dimensional snowflake style.


3 Selection of dyes and auxiliaries


Because of the molecular structure of some dyes (such as the yellow monomer) is difficult to oxidation, so in the knitting clothing snowflake washing treatment, should choose easy oxidation, decolorization fast dyes. At the same time, according to the dye category of the dyed fabric, choose different snowflake washing additives.


3.1 Dye suitable for decolorization of potassium permanganate and phosphoric acid mixture


Vulcanized dyes, such as vulcanized black BRN, vulcanized bright green 511


3.2 Dye suitable for decolorization of mixed solution of potassium permanganate and sodium hypochlorite


Reactive dyes, such as reactive brilliant blue X-BR, reactive dark green KE-4BD, reactive turquoise blue KN-G


Vulcanized dyes, such as Black Brn vulcanized


3.3 Dye suitable for decolorization of mixed solution of sodium hypochlorite and cellulose


Reactive dyestuff, sulfide dyestuff, direct dyestuff.


3.4 Not suitable for the three mixed liquid decolorization of dyes, such as reactive yellow dyes, X type, K type, KE type, direct yellow dyes.


Other common washing methods of knitting clothing are:


Brigitte grain dyeing


Blue grain dyeing is a new environmental protection process, suitable for the dyeing of all cotton fabric, the plant dyes are uniformly attached to the surface of the fabric, so it is also called single-side coating dyeing or scraping. A simple way to distinguish is to see if the colors on the front and back are different. The inside of the blue grain dyeing fabric is the natural color of the grey cloth, while the outside is the color after dyeing.


Green line dyeing is the most popular natural health dyeing technology in Europe. The natural color of the blue grain washing fabric, after washing, presents a nostalgic and elegant style. The more the color is washed, the more natural it will be, and with the different wearing habits of everyone, it will show different degrees of whitening effect in various parts, which will truly become a distinctive private exclusive trouser suit. The effect of the joint line position is especially obvious, which belongs to its process characteristics.


Due to the technological characteristics of blue grain dyeing, plant dyes naturally adhere to the surface of the fabric, so the color fastness is slightly weaker than other dyeing processes. Before the first three times of wearing, it is necessary to soak in strong saline for 12 hours to fix the color. After that, the color fading will be reduced, but compared with other dyed trouser suits, the color fading is still obvious. Please pay attention to hang as much as possible in the display, and do not stack, stack attention to often change the folding position, or fold from the other side, so as not to cause local fade, fade. Can not long - time spotlights, often change the display sample clothes.


Enzyme washing


Also called enzyme washing, enzyme is a kind of cellulase, exists in the nature of organisms, is a kind of natural healthy beneficial enzyme. It can degrade the fiber structure in a certain pH value and temperature, so that the cloth can fade more gently, and get a lasting soft effect. With the help of washing machine rubbing and friction, the dye off, remove villi, whitening and other fading effect. Biological enzyme washing can avoid the damage of clothing, fabric and environmental pollution caused by water washing. It has a unique appearance and soft feel, with a strong sense of nostalgia and stereo, which increases the softness of the garment and the wrinkle feeling of the thread (the trace of sewing thread). The color is good, the style is natural and chic, comfortable and casual, and it is also a very environmentally friendly way to wash water.


Atone washing


Stone grinding washing is to add a certain size of pumice stone to the washing water, so that the pumice stone and clothes can be polished to achieve different washing effects. After washing, the cloth surface appears gray and old, and the clothes are slightly to severely damaged. The appearance of the fabric washed by stone is older, and the feel is softer. Because the strength of stone washing is larger, it is usually used for denim, canvas, large bead and other thick fabrics.


Garment washed


Also called garment wash, in short, is to our usual familiar knitting fabric washing to mechanization, the water temperature is fixed in a certain temperature, then add some detergent, after about 15 minutes of ordinary washing, so water softener can, make the fabric more soft, comfortable, on the vision more natural and more clean. The appearance is more rustic and natural. Due to the particularity of garment washing, each garment becomes a unique work of art.


Garment dyeing


The special treatment of the whole garment dyed after the fabric is made into the garment to make the garment look nostalgic and fashionable. The appearance presents a special dyeing effect, and the seams of the clothes are dyed in different shades, reflecting the rustic and nostalgic style. Clothing dyeing is different from other dyeing methods. As part of the floating color is attached to the surface of the clothes, the fixed color washing must be carried out in accordance with the washing instructions of the clothes before the first wearing, and the later washing should be done alone or together with the clothes of similar color.


Our company's current digital printing towels also need to be washed after production, because our company is afraid of staining with a single cylinder of washing, although the cost is higher, it can be better to carry out the washing operation of the product.


Digital printing manufacturers are now more and more, but the standard production is not particularly many, so it is still necessary to improve, good to choose. Division I so many years of development, or very reliable.


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